by Ryan George

“It’s 8am and I’m starting to sweat. I’m not sure if it’s the view of the all-female beach volleyball team,
warming up in brightly-colored bikinis, or a group of orthodox Jews doing calisthenics in long shirts
and black pants, but the sights (and heat) along Tel Aviv’s coastline are having an effect on me.”

The path that snakes through Park Hayarkon, past the port and along the beachfront promenade is one of Tel Aviv’s most popular biking trails. I’ve already ridden by a water park blasting techno music, a rowing club, climbing wall, soccer pitch, runners, roller-bladers, Tai-Chi enthusiasts and sunbathers - a microcosm of Tel Aviv itself.

The Peace and the Racket

At its start, the bike trail winds with the river through thick eucalyptus and pine groves. Arched wooden bridges cross the water. The edge of the riverbank is shaded and quiet; catfish bubble up to the surface and songbirds flit through the trees and brush. A kayaker rows past and a slow current follows in his wake.

Just as I’m reaching a zen-like state of calm - the music hits me. The nearby water park is already full and techno music is blaring over the loudspeakers. People are swimming, splashing and sliding down the water tubes.

Past the Water Park, the quiet returns and the trail opens up to a large lake and wide grassy fields. You can rent small boats and tool around there doing whatever comes to mind - morning calisthenics, for instance, a game of frisbee, tai chi, or a picnic. A rowing club is nearby with a restaurant set right along the path, making for a good excuse to stop and try heaven in a plastic cup - Israeli blended ice coffee. Take a break and watch the fit cyclists, roller-bladers and joggers going by, staring at your enticing beverage with envy.

In the park, the bikers and roller-bladers tend to be friendly, nodding a “shalom” en route; the joggers are cranky and intense, possibly from a lack of iced coffee. The real road warriors, however, are the Moms pushing baby strollers - give them a wide berth or prepare to face the wrath of the goddesses.

Soon, the trail passes under the Ayalon highway and a large climbing wall comes over the horizon. Pick-up and scheduled games draw players to the adjacent soccer pitches and basketball courts. The expanse of the Mediterranean comes into view as the route runs into the woodenslated boardwalk of the Tel Aviv port and curves south.

The recently revamped port has a cluster of trendy bars, restaurants, galleries and coffee shops that take in the gorgeous view of the sea. At night, it’s one of Tel Aviv’s hotspots, although in the morning it is low-key, hosting the early-risers, as well as the weary stragglers from late night parties. The calm water is a soft blue, with small waves striking the shore. Windsurfers ride the strong winds and small boats ply the coast. Fishermen hoist tall fishing poles along the breakwater. The scene is idyllic and perhaps-only a suggestion -best appreciated with another iced coffee.

Golden Grains of Sand

Heading south along the wide wooden promenade, Tel Aviv’s sandy beaches are on my right and a hint of Tel Aviv’s full frenzy to my left. Each beach has a slightly different feel. The beach near the port is full of excited kids running and splashing. On the beaches south of it you’re as likely to catch a conversation in French, Spanish or English, as you are in Hebrew. But in whatever language, you can bet that someone will strike up a conversation.

A few minutes south lies Gordon beach, perhaps the quintessential Israeli beach scene. Beautiful, lithe Israelis lounge in the sun right up to the water’s edge, frequently with cellphone in hand. However, getting to the water can be tricky as you maneuver around the games of Matcot, a game that consists of whacking a small rubber ball with a wooden paddle as hard as you can at your partner. A large park with spectacularly elaborate jungle gyms and more beaches lie further south, all the way to Jaffa. There is even a religious beach which men and women visit on separate days.

Keeping pace with me closer to Jaffa was a cute blonde in a sundress on an old bike. I’d pass, stop to take a picture and then she’d pass. We had a little competition for a while until she unfortunately turned off downtown. The promenade is filled with bikers, joggers, walkers, dog walkers, groups of teenagers, elderly couples and anyone else in between.

The Southern Stretch

Jaffa juts off the coast in front of me. Arriving at the Old City and port is a great excuse to have lunch at one of the fish restaurants, with great views of the sea and the Old City of Jaffa. From here you can explore the warren-like maze of the Old City, filled with handicraft stores, art galleries and antiques.

Riding north again along the busy promenade, with a cool breeze coming off the water, it’s easy to see why so many people fall in love with the tremendous energy of Tel Aviv. In the park now, I stop at the river, mottled sunlight casting shadows along the water. It’s peaceful and quiet and it’s hard to believe that I’m only minutes from downtown Tel Aviv. Faintly though, I can hear a techno beat thrumming across the water and I look up and start off in the direction of the music.

Israel’s bicycle craze has moved into high gear as work begins on
a 1200 km National Bike Trail stretching from Mt. Hermon in the
North to Eilat in the South. The path winds through the valleys and
mountains of the Galilee down to the Sharon Plain. It then heads
East through Jerusalem incorporating major tourist sites, and then
southward through the varied desertscapes of the Negev to Eilat.